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removing dust/detritus

Discussion in 'Preparation - ways to go about it.' started by imnu, Jun 8, 2019.

  1. imnu

    imnu PPS Tradesman

    Hi all

    Been having a nightmare painting some cabinets for a customer.

    The finish is a very dark blue (Zoffany oil based eggshell).

    The units (a table with drawers and a chest of drawers) are oak. I primed then with acrylic eggshell, sanded them back and decided I didn't like the grain on the drawer fronts once I had applied the first coat of eggshell. A day or two later I sanded them back using the Festool mesh paper (240 grit) on my Rotex.

    They sanded nicely. The grain had been filled by the primer and undercoat.

    I then dusted them off using a brush attachment on my dust extractor. I then ran the dusting brush over them and used a tack cloth.

    Using a brand new Purdy, I applied the next coat of eggshell. Within seconds I twigged that it looked like someone had poured a fine grit all over them.

    A couple of days later, I repeated the process. This time I used all of the above plus wiped it lint free Scott paper cloth. Then washed the drawer fronts down with white spirit, then repeated the above process. Once again, they looked like they had been painted with a sand based masonry paint.

    I told the customer that I believed that the high levels of (universal?) pigment in the paint was the root cause. By that I mean it is taking wayyyyy longer to cure even though I added loads of Terebene.

    Turn around was supposed to be a week. I had to extend it by 2 weeks in the anticipation of being able to re-sand without the gritty finish.

    My bread and butter for many years has been cabinet painting but I have only encountered the "grit" issue once before. That was with a dark grey Morrells acid cat paint a few years ago (and happened to be for the same customer).

    Has anyone got any recommendations for cleaning not quite cured surfaces prior to re-coating?

    I have to hand the units back tomorrow morning so that that the estate agents can photograph the rooms. I only charged 3.5 days labour but have spent almost double that amount of time. You win some, you lose some, fair enough but I feel like a fraud. I have told the customer that some of the surfaces look like s""t but he is only worried about the fact that that the house photos are being taken tomorrow.

    I consider myself to be an extremely good cabinet painter (hand finish, old based top coats) but every now and then, you take on jobs that you regret...

    Hang it, I am in the pub composing this message, she wot must be obeyed is away, so perhaps life isn't so bad.
  2. Painter16

    Painter16 PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    Why use acrylic eggshell as a primer?
    imnu likes this.
  3. Wayners

    Wayners Happy to be alive. Bar Member

    Oil over acrylic eggshell? OK.:think:.. Bin. 123. High hide or just an acrylic undercoat would be better then a denib and on with your zoffany oil based eggshell. Sand, bin and another top coat will fix I guess... See what others think
    imnu likes this.
  4. imnu

    imnu PPS Tradesman

    Sorry, my bad. I use Leyland acrylic primer. I like it because it is easy to sand. Pants at obliterating base colours but i expect the oil based eggshell to do that.

    Sorry, the use of an acrylic eggshell was a typo. Shall edit my original post if the opportunity is still there
    Painter16 likes this.
  5. ahenrypd

    ahenrypd PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    Depends how cured they are. I have got a scraper out before on finishes I haven't been happy with and started again.
    You could try wet sanding, that gives a great smooth finish.
    Sprayandrun and imnu like this.
  6. Tomcio

    Tomcio Brush Navigator Bar Member

    It is not the bad paint batch? Does the dry paint in your paint tray look good?
  7. imnu

    imnu PPS Tradesman


    Wet sanding just clogged the paper.

    I used the Festool mesh and I could clearly see that i had sanded the paint flat. Any previous particles of dust/etc became invisible.
    ahenrypd likes this.
  8. Painter16

    Painter16 PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    I would try wiping it down with meths not white spirit,see if that makes any diff
    Bobbones and ahenrypd like this.
  9. ahenrypd

    ahenrypd PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    Is it possible it just needs longer to cure before denibbing and repainting? A PITA but it might be the problem if everything else has been narrowed down.
    As the next coat of paint goes on it reactivates some little paint particles which were previously lying flat.
    Bobbones and Painter16 like this.
  10. Tomcio

    Tomcio Brush Navigator Bar Member

  11. Teho

    Teho PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    dose it look like this as soon as you apply the paint ?

    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 11, 2019
  12. Buckers

    Buckers PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    That looks strange @Tehomas bow, some sort of contamination? Do you know what the cause was?
  13. Teho

    Teho PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    Yes it was the over use of genuine turpentine that kept reactivating the molicule as it had been saturated .it had to be stripped and started again I also was told that the decorator who did it used turns to wet and dry his gras doughnut or what lol
  14. Tomcio

    Tomcio Brush Navigator Bar Member

    Using turps for wet sand??
  15. Teho

    Teho PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    I know mental thoughts some have lol
  16. Buckers

    Buckers PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    Why would anyone think that was a good idea?!
  17. Teho

    Teho PPS Master Craftsman Bar Member

    I suppose his thinking was ,as you can dilute gras with turps to make it brush able he probably thought it would make it finer lol
  18. Tomcio

    Tomcio Brush Navigator Bar Member

    How this ended @imnu?

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